Selvedge Denim FAQ: 12 Questions About Fit, Washing & Care
Buying your first pair of selvedge jeans should feel exciting, not like learning a rulebook. This guide answers recurring questions about raw denim, choosing a fit and everyday care, with a few practical starting points from The Jean Maker.
1. What is selvedge denim, and how can I recognise it?
Selvedge describes a fabric with a self-finished edge produced on a traditional shuttle loom. Turn up the trouser cuff and look along the inside outseam: a neatly finished strip is the familiar clue. A coloured thread often runs through that edge, but the colour itself is not a quality rating.
2. Is selvedge denim the same as raw denim?
No. Selvedge describes the weaving; raw describes denim that has not been garment-washed. You can buy washed selvedge or raw non-selvedge jeans. When shopping, check both the fabric construction and the finish rather than treating the two words as interchangeable.
3. Why does selvedge denim cost more, and is it worth it?
Slower weaving, narrower cloth and smaller production runs can increase costs. Whether that matters to you depends on how much you value fabric character and construction. Judge the complete garment: fit, seams, finishing and repairability all matter. A selvedge edge alone does not guarantee better jeans.
4. How do I choose the right size online?
Start with jeans you already enjoy wearing. Lay them flat and compare their measurements with the chart for the style you want. Check the waist, front rise, thigh, inseam and leg opening. Follow the chart’s measuring method: a flat width and a full circumference are different numbers. If your favourite pair feels tight when sitting, do not use its measurements as your comfort target.
5. Which The Jean Maker fit should I start with?
For a regular straight leg, explore Ueno at a mid rise or Asakusa at a high rise. Harajuku offers a slim taper; Meiji offers a regular taper. Shibuya is a loose straight option with a high waist. Shinjuku offers a slim straight silhouette. Choose the shape first, then compare the specific size chart and fabric description. Think about the shoes, tops and activities you want the jeans to work with.
6. Will raw jeans shrink or stretch?
Both can happen. Sanforization reduces shrinkage; unsanforized denim can shrink substantially unless it has already been washed. Wear can relax some areas, especially the waist. Ask about the exact fabric and whether measurements are before or after washing. Do not automatically size down or assume every raw pair needs sizing up.
7. How long does it take to break in raw denim?
There is no fixed deadline. Fabric and wear frequency affect how quickly stiffness eases. Wear the jeans normally and allow them to soften gradually. Initial firmness is different from a poor fit: if sitting or walking is uncomfortable, reassess the size or cut instead of expecting break-in to solve everything.
8. When should I wash selvedge jeans?
Wash them when they are dirty, sweaty or need refreshing. There is no universal six-month waiting rule. Follow the garment’s instructions. For ordinary care where permitted, turn jeans inside out, use cool water and mild detergent, and air-dry. Check the fabric’s shrinkage guidance before the first wash, particularly with unsanforized denim.
9. Will indigo rub off on shoes, clothing or furniture?
It can. Indigo transfer, often called crocking, is especially relevant when dark denim is new or damp. Be cautious around pale upholstery, white footwear and light bags. Wash separately initially and follow the care label. Avoid assuming one wash will eliminate all transfer.
10. Will washing ruin the fades?
Washing changes how denim ages, but it does not erase its character. Friction and repeated movement gradually create lighter areas. Your habits shape the result. Choose a care routine that keeps the jeans comfortable and clean rather than chasing someone else’s exact fade pattern.
11. Can I freeze jeans instead of washing them?
A freezer does not remove dirt or body oils, and it is not a reliable way to kill the microbes responsible for odour. Airing between wears can help them feel fresher, but it cannot replace washing when cleaning is needed.
12. When should I hem or repair my jeans?
Before shortening jeans, establish the expected shrinkage and your preferred finished length. For a fabric that still needs its first shrinkage wash, discuss washing before hemming with the maker. Decide whether you want a cuff and try the jeans with your usual footwear. For repairs, act when an area starts thinning rather than waiting for a large hole. Contact The Jean Maker to discuss your pair and the available repair options.
Find a pair that fits your everyday life
Start with the silhouette you prefer, compare measurements and ask about the fabric before ordering. If you need help narrowing down the options, send your preferred fit and measurements to info@thejeanmaker.ca.
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